The Science of Skincare & the Surprising Role of Fungi
Our wonderful skin, the largest organ we have, grows older and wiser along with us. That's why it's so important to nurture and protect it.
Do you have a skin care routine? The full works, 20-step kind, or just a splash of cold water and a quick scrub of the face with your hands? Perhaps that twice-yearly face mask on a quiet Friday night is all the self care you need?
On platforms like TikTok and Instagram you’re likely to come across a veritable tsunami of trends, routines and products, and the cosmetics industry is equally illustrious in its endeavour to draw us in with the newest, most effective product that might give you benefits you hadn’t even considered.
But what actually is the skin, and what does it need?
The Skin: Your Body's Fungal Frontier
Picture this: your skin, a vast landscape of cellular forests and microbial meadows, is the largest organ in your body. It's not just a pretty face – it's a complex ecosystem that rivals the most diverse habitats on Earth.
Made up of water, proteins, lipids, minerals and other chemicals, the skin’s primary function is to protect you - as the exterior envelope holding all your precious internal organs, it also acts as a barrier to stop unwanted germs and debris making its way into the body.
When we think of the skin we actually mean several layers:
- The stratum corneum: A protective barrier of dead cells, constantly shedding like spores in the wind and completely replaced every 27 days!
- The epidermis: Your personal immune fortress, keeping invaders at bay.
- The dermis: Home to follicles, blood vessels, and the mighty collagen – nature's own structural marvel, which makes up 75% of your skin.
- The subcutis: A cozy layer of fat, insulating your inner workings like a thick mycelial network.
Just as fungi survive and thrive in diverse conditions, our skin consistently faces challenges of its own.
Acne affects most people at some stage in their lives. The more severe variants, such as cystic acne, are among those that require antibiotics to treat. Mild acne occurs when there is irritation of the skin and blocking of pores that leads to oily buildup below the skin. Frequent washing can actually worsen acne and irritate the skin, so it’s recommended that you wash your face no more than twice a day.
Dry skin is also very normal, with the medical term being xeroderma. Your skin dries out and might become flaky when there is not enough moisture in the skin. You will be more prone to dryness if you live in a colder or drier climate, work outside often, or wash hands very frequently. You may have noticed that your skin dries out quicker during the winter! Eczema is a condition of particularly dry skin, ranging in severity from mild irritation to severely debilitating, causing dry, red, bumpy and itchy patches.
Despite the myriad cosmetic solutions promised by the beauty industry, there are some fundamental things that we can all do to help keep their skin in good working order:
Keep hydrated! Drinking water hydrates the whole body, including the cells in the skin, effectively moisturising from within.
Moisturise, moisturise, moisturise. Use products that contain emollients that soothe and hydrate the skin from the outside, and avoid ingredients that are drying to the skin, such as alcohols or sulfates. Opt for something fragrance free, particularly if your skin is sensitive.
Eat a varied diet - chocolate is allowed! There is a fairly popular belief that chocolate and other junk food gives you spots - but there is little evidence to strongly support or refute whether diet can be linked to proneness to acne. However, we do know that the gut microbiome is important in supporting overall body health, and eating a variety of foods helps keep the gut microbes happy. Including many different fruits, vegetables, mushrooms, grains, vitamins and other goodness in your diet also ensures you get your fair share of vitamins, minerals and antioxidants.
Protect your skin from the sun. This is probably the most important one; we’re becoming a lot more switched on about the damage the sun can do! The UV radiation from the sun damages cells, creating excessive reactive oxygen species and induces matrix metalloproteinases which age the skin in a process called photoaging. Even more critical is the effect the radiation can have on the DNA in the cells, creating mutations that can develop skin cancer. Incorporating SPF into your skincare helps keep your skin healthy, self-repairing and protected against radiation damage.
Nature's Skincare Cabinet
Taking mushroom extracts will help the body overall, with their strong antioxidant and anti Inflammatory compounds that can help keep skin balanced and resilient. In this article we are focusing in on two skincare powerhouses that are often overlooked in the conversation about mushrooms for skincare.
Oysters:
The Pleurotaceae family of fungi are a remarkable source of antioxidants like ergothioneine and ergosterol, which play a crucial role in neutralising free radicals in our bodies.
These antioxidants are vital in mitigating the visible signs of aging, such as wrinkles and fine lines, by protecting the skin from oxidative stress.
Oyster mushrooms boast a high content of Vitamin D2, a key nutrient essential for skin repair and regeneration and a precursor to Vitamin D3 - making them especially beneficial for individuals dealing with acne, eczema, or other inflammatory skin conditions.
Supporting liver function by facilitating detoxification could also aid in purifying the skin, potentially leading to a clearer and more radiant complexion.
With an impressive roster of other skin-loving compounds such as Peptides, Vitamin E, Selenium and Zinc, incorporating Oyster mushrooms into your diet or skincare routine could be a perfect addition for healthier, more resilient skin.
Compounds of Interest
Beta-Glucans
Beta-glucans, a type of polysaccharide found in the cell wall of all the mushrooms we grow - renowned for their immune modulating, gut-supporting properties - may also enhance skin moisture. Thanks to their humectant activity, they create a protective barrier on the skin, effectively attracting and retaining water, resulting in a hydrated and plump complexion.
Ergothioneine
This formidable antioxidant found in the humble Oyster at particularly high levels, boosts collagen production which is essential for maintaining skin elasticity and firmness, promoting a youthful and resilient skin appearance.
Proteins & Amino Acids
Oyster mushrooms are abundant in proteins and essential amino acids such as lysine, leucine, and valine. These components are vital for repairing and strengthening the skin’s natural barrier, reducing moisture loss and contributing to healthy, resilient skin.
Shiitake:
Lentinula edodes are incredible allies in nurturing and guarding our skin from damage. Packed with a rich profile of amino acids, Shiitake can support skin repair and shield against environmental stressors.
One of Shiitake’s standout ingredients is kojic acid, which naturally brightens the skin, gradually fading dark spots and hyperpigmentation to reveal a more even complexion.
Shiitake mushrooms are brimming with antioxidants which (thanks to combatting free radical damage throughout the body) contributes to a clearer, more radiant complexion by cleansing impurities that could potentially impact skin health.
Plus, with their natural antibacterial properties, shiitake could even play a role in reducing acne by inhibiting bacterial growth on the skin, helping maintain a smooth, blemish-free appearance.
Compounds of Interest
Lentinan
Lentinan is a polysaccharide found in shiitake noted for its potent anti-inflammatory properties. By modulating inflammatory responses responsible for skin irritations and redness, lentinan could be a valuable component for alleviating conditions such as acne, eczema, and dermatitis.
Vitamin D
Another critical component found in shiitake mushrooms is Vitamin D, a fat-soluble vitamin essential for skin cell growth and repair. Vitamin D contributes to skin cellular proliferation and differentiation, enhancing the structural integrity of the skin barrier.
Kojic Acid
Shiitake also contains kojic acid, an organic compound that acts primarily by inhibiting the activity of tyrosinase, an enzyme vital for melanin synthesis. By down regulating tyrosinase activity, kojic acid reduces melanin production, mitigating hyperpigmentation and promoting a more uniform skin tone.
There are lots of mushrooms (and plants!) that can support your skin. Chaga contains high levels of Melanin and Betaglucans that protect and restore the skin barrier, while the Ganoderic acids in Reishi may reverse collagen degradation and address cellular damage, with some studies even showing restorative effects following sun damage…
Korean skincare products are praised as some of the best and most thorough in the world, with people sporting clear, smooth skin that is thoroughly protected from sun damage. Traditional Korean skincare includes mushrooms as key ingredients in products that are applied topically. Mushrooms like shiitake, reishi and maitake are used to improve skin hydration, gently exfoliate, reduce signs of aging, and soothe the skin.
Whatever the length and complexity of your personal skin care routine is, incorporating mushroom tinctures can not only give your skin the extra protection it deserves, it might just leave you feeling radiant all over.
Check out our “Glowing Skin Bundle” to get a head start!
References
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